Nasi Ayam Kedewatan Ibu Mangku

The chicken rice Ubud has been queuing for since the 1960s, for a couple of euros.

Ibu Mangku started selling her chicken rice at a market in the 1960s and the family still makes it the same way. There's basically one dish: nasi ayam campur, rice with chicken cooked several ways (lemongrass sate lilit, slow-spiced betutu, shredded chicken), lawar, a boiled egg, crispy skin and peanuts, with a sambal that really bites. No pork or lard, so it works for everyone. Behind the front room there's a garden with Balinese-style pavilions and a koi pond. It fills up between 11:00 and 14:00: come a bit before to get a pavilion. It's on the main road in Kedewatan, a short ride from the centre.